White 4000 Hood Repair Pt 2
Ok, so we are onto the next stage and that is starting to laminate up the outside bond areas of our hood or fiberglass item.
Now we can mix up our resin in a clean container, always read the directions on back of the product tin according to your country/location and pick a nice day to do it, the resin mix volume will depend on how much you have to do, no point wasting it as we can always mix up some more, also if you never have done this before best to mix up some sample mixes and time when it will gel, you should have around 20-25 minutes working time before gel time depending on your day and also use a good mask with chemical filter/s or wear full PPE if in confined areas.
Cooler days one can add a touch more hardener ½% (mekp) or a bit less if is a hot day but generally speaking 1% should be fine.
Now we should have all our fiberglass mat sections lined up to make things more easy and a set of gloves to protect our hands so first we wet out a section depending on how much damage we got, lets say we wet out the bond section say a metre in a few different sections we can now get our first smallest width section and lay it around (may have to rip where needed and slightly overlap the mat like end to end) and press down so they not fall off.
Find our resin and we can start to wet out this first layer with our brush, now don’t oversaturate the resin ( if we have damage in different areas we can do one area at the time if you like).
Now get the next wider width and lay it over making sure we go over the top of the first layer rip tears to make stronger laminate, and now with our plastic or alloy paddle roller (can use a coin roller) lightly roll the new mat into the other, when done resin coat this layer and use our roller to lightly take out any air bubbles so as to bring the resin through the mat for a complete wet out make sure you have some Acetone in a clean container to put your roller in and roll through the acetone so not let the resin set within the roller.
Try to avoid rolling the roller onto the good section of your hood try to keep within the ground area, now lets have a quick look at the laid mat level to the surrounding surfaces there should hopefully be enough room for the 3rd layer of mat to go down, now if there is not enough room to put it we can carefully at the mat end separate the mat into two leaving us two light sections of mat or you could just use some 300gms or 1oz csm if we have any to make the area near lever when wetted out.
Again use your roller (make sure you give the roller a flick to to the ground to get rid of any Acetone) if need be to remove any air bubbles, although because this last layer may be a thin layer most if any air bubbles can be easily worked out with your brush.
If this is the only damage then let it set up, if not, continue the steps with the other damaged sections by using up any left over resin if your brush starts to stiffen a little grab some Acetone in a tin and work the brush through it so the acetone goes right up into the tight bristle area, when clean flick the brush carefully and watch your eyes, safety glasses or clear googles are good to protect the eyes with.
HINT : If your resin mixing container starts to gel do not mix new resin in this or you will end up with non catalysed resin areas and will result in a very messy layup and will result in hours of clean up, so always have on hand several clean containers that you can use instead, now if your gelled container is a ice cream type container leave it out in the sun to go hard, you can now twist the container breaking the resin bond making it easy to pull/flick out the resin so to use again.
Now if it is getting toward the evening your resin should have already gone hard, throw a old tarp over the hood to protect your layup for the night or if you still have plenty of time left in the day and all has set hard you can safely get a small straight edge and put it across your bonded areas to see if it is higher or level to the surrounding area if it is a bit under that is good as this will allow for filler to be applied.
Any high spots or hairy merry’s can be sanded down lightly with some 24grit sanding disc till level, any very hollow sections (should be none) can have a bit more mat and resin in them/it, air dust off and wipe over with some Prepsol (wax and grease remover or similar) with a cotton cloth and let dry well.
Once this has all been done it is time to mix up some filler that is suitable for fiberglass and under 2k (2 pak) finishes or if your looking for a cheaper finish you could use a good enamel but would advise that this can take an hour or more to dry and be acceptable to insects and dust unless you use a product called Enamel Add as this is a hardener for enamel but for long lasting shine best go with a 2 pak paint like a polyurethane finish or a car finish like Protec (Paraglaze) finish.
Now with our filler I personally use a Septone filler as it is very easy to use and has a bit of movement when adding hardener and gives a good flow when spreading out with a spatula and dries well sands easy is 15 minutes or so, ohh if you do use this ask for the blue hardener as it looks much more professional than pink hehe.
If you not have or not want to use Septone filler then use your favourite one or ask at a trades centre that specializes in car or marine finishes.
Now we should have a suitable mixing board and mix up enough to do an area before it starts to setup if we have not mixed up fillers before I suggest to do some test mixes so you get the right consistencies and gel time always follow the directions on the container before use.
When we have completed filling our glass areas and all has gone hard we can start sanding and levelling it down, don’t be afraid of sanding into the good surrounds as we will end up spraying a Primer Filler over all the repair when done, we can first use say 120 grit or 80 grit paper/discs (not glass paper) depending on how rough you did the filler and then use a 150 grit then a 240 grit either way we should end up with the fiberglass coming through in places along with thin layers of filler and level with the surrounds.
END of Part 2
Want to go back to PART 1. White Hood Part 1.